A tapa should always be free. Order a little caña beer at a bar and you’ll get one alongside it. Old-school places such as Casa Vizcaíno are continuing the tradition. One of the best kinds of tapa is a matrimonio, a marriage of one dark salted anchovy and one white vinegar-cured one on top of bread with salmorejo, which is like gazpacho. Casa Moreno, on the far side of the old town, also does montadito – a tapa on toast – which you can get with morcilla or sobrasada. A lot of bars don’t actually have tables, so if you’re eating and drinking in Seville, you’re probably standing. Even at home, my aunt hates having chairs at birthday parties.