There’s also the matter of production. Has the dairy been homogenised (the process that emulsifies fat) for a smoother consistency? Has it been pasteurised (heated to remove microorganisms)? Is it raw? “Unpasteurised has loads more going on,” says Harris, of the rose, iron and minerally flavours he gets from some. “But if the animal has been eating silage, it can sometimes verge on unpleasant.”