The Indian Ocean has its fair share of glamorous tropical islands, many heaving with luxury resorts: the Maldives, the Seychelles, Mauritius. But the five islands of the Bazaruto archipelago feel different. On Benguerra, you feel you have come to Africa, not to an incongruous oasis of sun loungers and infinity pools. There are luxury hotels, six of them across the archipelago, including the fabulous — and fabulously expensive — Kisawa Sanctuary. But they are discreet and well-mannered. They leave these islands to be resolutely themselves.